Power Flash Schematic

[JPierson]

Hi - Long time lurker, first time poster. My dad gave me this machine sometime in the mid 70s. I remember playing it for a few minutes, then a fantastic shower of sparks blew out of the transformer and burned a hole in the carpet. It has been kept in this state ever since, with my plan being to someday return it to functional. That day is nearly here - I know a bit about coin op and vintage electronics, but my preferred way of navigating wiring is to have a schematic. Looking things over, I think the 24v side looks pristine, but as shown in the photos, the lights and wires for balls-out and jackpot were cut, and since I was an 8 year old at the time, I have no memory of what came out or why - guessing the wires may have been charred, but the junction block does not look burnt. I'll post photos of that part as well.

With that, my questions for the experts:
1) Is a schematic available for the model B power flash?
2) For the transformer, I've seen some videos where they have each of the two yellow and one black wire split - is making a 12 and 24v feed simply the pairing of two yellow (+) and one black (-) for 24v, and one yellow and one black to make 12v for the lights?

I'm a novice with these - thanks for your help!

[JPierson]

Pardon my earlier typos - Once I figure out how to edit, I will clean that up. Here are additional photos of the various bits. The ball-out switch vanished along the way, and the replacement I found may or may not work - I need to tweak the lever or the holder to get those parts to play with each other. How to tie it in to the ball-out circuit is a stumper - The wiring and switches inside the unit looks to be intact, but I'm not sure - Getting the various two circuits restored is the next step. Thanks again!
image9.jpegimage2.jpegimage0.jpeg

[lotsoballs]

I’m not aware of any schematics for a Powerflash unless somebody around here made some.

The easiest/cheapest way is to just buy a “wall wart” type plug in transformer; since it’s just 2 wires splice/connect after you cut the connector off the end and strip the wires; you can even run some jumper wires to convert the lights to run off 24v too… just need to buy the proper 24v bulbs.

That’s what I did.

[MrGneiss]

WELCOME!!!

[takethecastle57]

and biscuits

[JPierson]

IMG_3305.jpg
Went with the online guidance regarging the power source - The center tap transformer. Wired it up as recommended on some youtube posts, powered it up, and by all indications, no power left the unit, but it did get very hot, and while it did not smoke, the unmistakable scent indicates suggests this NOS unit has ceased to be. It also blew the circuit breaker to the plug.

Next step - the recommended wall wart(s) and a reconfigured junction block. Since it's been more than 40 years since I knew how to work this, I can't remember how to get the ball bypass to reset, so loading the hopper just passes the balls to the rear tub...

[lotsoballs]

IMG_3305.jpg
Went with the online guidance regarging the power source - The center tap transformer. Wired it up as recommended on some youtube posts, powered it up, and by all indications, no power left the unit, but it did get very hot, and while it did not smoke, the unmistakable scent indicates suggests this NOS unit has ceased to be. It also blew the circuit breaker to the plug.

Next step - the recommended wall wart(s) and a reconfigured junction block. Since it's been more than 40 years since I knew how to work this, I can't remember how to get the ball bypass to reset, so loading the hopper just passes the balls to the rear tub...

There’s a sliding metal ball release “lock”; the previous owner labeled mine permanent marker. Just reset it like this keep the balls from dumping.

[Johnny Bravo]

Have you tested the solenoids to see if they are burnt out/shorted?

[JPierson]

Thanks, Johnny - The solenoids move freely and show no signs of corrosion or trouble. I was thinking getting 24v to them would be the way to test. So far, that's been the blocker. I probably did the outputs of that transformer wrong, which is why it failed. I have a multimeter I can use on the coils, but have not looked up if that tool would be useful - if it's like a guitar pickup, an ohm reading would tell me if they had resistance, but I would not know good from bad, aside from 0 = bad. Other than those, it looks like these machines are about as complex electronically as a flashlight, but it would still be great to have something to reference.

[Johnny Bravo]

Thanks, Johnny - The solenoids move freely and show no signs of corrosion or trouble. I was thinking getting 24v to them would be the way to test. So far, that's been the blocker. I probably did the outputs of that transformer wrong, which is why it failed. I have a multimeter I can use on the coils, but have not looked up if that tool would be useful - if it's like a guitar pickup, an ohm reading would tell me if they had resistance, but I would not know good from bad, aside from 0 = bad. Other than those, it looks like these machines are about as complex electronically as a flashlight, but it would still be great to have something to reference.

I will be restoring a powerflash Chinaman this winter. Very bad shape but I have gathered most parts I will need. Unit was missing two solenoids which took me some time to find new replacements. The guts were completely broken/trashed as well but I found a standard type Nishijin with working guts as a donor. When I tested my solenoids via 24VDC wall type adapter I had to cut the adapter wires to reverse the polarity, i.e. center is negative and outer is positive.

Your unit may have a fried rectifier bridge circuit that changes AC to DC. Lotsoballs suggestion is valid. I recently restored a Sankyo Power Max using a wall adapter with 24VDC output for powering the circuit and the solenoid. Although for the lights , I purchased a 24VDC to 12VDC device that was very small and mounted on the back of the unit.

[Johnny Bravo]

Here is a video that may help a bit. https://www.pachitalk.com/forums/sho...-Racer-Machine

[JPierson]

IMG_3424.jpg
The wall warts were indeed just the thing - It's a litle stiff in places, but all the electronics seem to be working. Almost back in business!

[takethecastle57]

Have you noticed that both "Queen" tulips have a "Pachinko Ball" in the middle of their crowns ?

I did a reversible modification on the play field with drawings from the Lewis Carol series of books " Alice in Wonderland " and "Alice Though The Looking Glass" using clear cold Lamination from the local Staples office store . I resize the drawings to fit around the play field.

I called it The Alice Project on a Thread here. It has been in storage since 2008 I will possibly get it to play in the near future .

[JPierson]

IMG_3430.jpgIMG_3430.jpg So, as of now, the coils have power, and they are doing things, but it seems like they are not being triggered correctly, which is causing the results seen here. It burned out the win light, so I'm guessing that socket is shorting - I'll confirm once I pull it back off the wall. Maybe a jammed ball has backed up the EM section. Is ball weight supposed to be the trigger for these? I'm seeing a couple of pin spots that has me wondering if these balls are a larger than original diameter...

[lotsoballs]

IMG_3430.jpgIMG_3430.jpg So, as of now, the coils have power, and they are doing things, but it seems like they are not being triggered correctly, which is causing the results seen here. It burned out the win light, so I'm guessing that socket is shorting - I'll confirm once I pull it back off the wall. Maybe a jammed ball has backed up the EM section. Is ball weight supposed to be the trigger for these? I'm seeing a couple of pin spots that has me wondering if these balls are a larger than original diameter...

Did you buy a new bulbs for 24v? The factory bulbs are only 12v I believe.

Are you using real pachinko balls not ball bearings off Amazon that cause problems?