Nishijin Powerflash Restoration

[Johnny Bravo]

Hello, I have a Chinaman Powerflash requiring restoration. Right now assessing the electronics. In comparing with previous related posts on these units it appears two of the four 24 volt dc solenoids are missing as well as a small "relay". Solenoids have no mfg. marking's that I could see. I ask if anyone knows where I can source OEM or aftermarket solenoids? As for the missing "relay" is anyone holding a circuit/wiring diagram that also shows parts?


Nishijin Powerflash.jpgNishijin Powerflash Solenoids.jpg

[sparky kilowatt]

Congratulations on picking up a Powerflash. I've not been fortunate enough to find one yet, but I'm interested in learning more as you restore yours, so keep posting please.

[Grizzly Adam]

If you don't find anyone that knows the correct part number, I think with some details on what the relay is meant to control/how it acts, I am pretty confident we can track down a suitable replacement part.

[Johnny Bravo]

I hopefully found suitable solenoid at Link to 24 volt dc solenoids:

https://www.harfington.com/products/...EaAubNEALw_wcB

Dan Welch and other videos show unit works fine without the so called "relay".

The main Nishijin Sophia workings are in poor shape but I have a working donor unit. Photo's to come soon.

[Johnny Bravo]

Here is a photo of Nishijn Powerflash showing the solenoid board with so called "relay". I have seen other boards without "relay" with powerflash working fine, as per Dan Welch video.

Powerflash.jpg

[Grizzly Adam]

Solenoids and relays are both operated by electro magnets, very similar. I would say these are definitely solenoids. What voltage do the original solenoids operate on?

[Johnny Bravo]

The four solenoids , (I'm missing two of them) are 24 volt DC. Hopefully I can find someone with unit that has the relay and can then provide an explanation on it's purpose. If not I will wire things up without the relay. This is my second restoration. I just completed resto. on a Sankyo Power Max. that uses a single 24 volt dc solenoid. I have separate thread on the Sankyo but haven't provided final update. I purchased my 5 pachinko's at yard sale last fall. It took me many months to do the first one as I have medical condition , however , the restoration process has been a god send for me. Long, cold, dark Canadian winters can be brutal for idle hands. If all goes well the remaining 4 units will keep me busy for a few years.

[Grizzly Adam]

I wonder if the relay is to turn on a lighting circuit when one of the solenoids is activated. 24v is fairly standard for relays. If you find that that is the case, the only real question (besides NO/NC, probably NO) is if there is a time delay for it to de-energize.

[Silverballs]

100_2491.jpgThis is the inside of my China man, and I've asked that question myself. The relay is on the Thunderbird only. Difference is, CM will close ALL tulips when a yellow/queen is utilized, regardless of which side (hence the missing relay), where as the TB will close each side with their respective Queen.

[Grizzly Adam]

So it should be a standard 24v transformer using the NO terminals with no time delay.

[Grizzly Adam]

@silverballs can you measure the physical size of the relay so Johnny case located one that should physically fit well?

[Grizzly Adam]

@Johnny Bravo this relay should work for you, just hook the input side to the queen, NO red to 24v, and NO black the solenoid you would like to run. If you are controlling two solenoids off the same NO, you would want to pick up a couple diodes to keep the circuits independent, which makes me wonder why they didn't just use diodes instead of a relay anyway.
https://a.co/d/dX5Csy3


This one might be even better for you-- there are two independent NC relays in this one.
https://a.co/d/2ClVwZK

[Johnny Bravo]

Thank you so much. I can follow the wiring on the photo. I tested the two solenoids I have and they work. As I may not have to source out a relay for the CM Powerflash this will ease the restoration process. This forum is filled with excellent people.

[Johnny Bravo]

@Johnny Bravo this relay should work for you, just hook the input side to the queen, NO red to 24v, and NO black the solenoid you would like to run. If you are controlling two solenoids off the same NO, you would want to pick up a couple diodes to keep the circuits independent, which makes me wonder why they didn't just use diodes instead of a relay anyway.
https://a.co/d/dX5Csy3


This one might be even better for you-- there are two independent NC relays in this one.
https://a.co/d/2ClVwZK

Many thanks to you for this information. Having resource person such as yourself really helps.

[Johnny Bravo]

I purchased a replacement background from Pachinko Restorations ltd. but the color is not a good match. Can anyone provide a person/company that can provide a closer match? This is for my upcoming Nishijin Chinaman restoration.

20240824_172225.jpg

[Silverballs]

If original/factory is your bag then that is the "original" replacement color. I thought the same on my 1st PF machine.

[Grizzly Adam]

Colors change a bunch as they fade. I had the amoeba design and the red wasn’t even visible anymore.

[jasonlujan]

the color you have is accurate.

[Johnny Bravo]

Gents, thank you very much for the help. I will use the proper colored background that William at Pachinko Restorations ltd. sold me. William also mentioned to me that the background he sells is correct. What I have is very faded.

I will soon post photo's of rehabilitating the inner workings as the original was severely "altered". I have a donor unit which is standard model 11.

[Johnny Bravo]

Well I started with the removing of the playfield board. The wood was very dry and brittle so had to go very slow. When removing the spiral nails simply tapping them backward only caused more damage. Had to use vice grips and turn and pull nails like they were screws and that worked.

Playboard being slowly pried loose.jpgPlayboard prying.jpgNails Removal 1.jpgNails Removal 2.jpgNails Removal 3.jpg