3D Part Repository

[bewalffm]

Thank you again for the help of SibSr. His 3d printed parts brought my HEIWA vintage machine back to work. He invited me to post the parts I designed in this thread ...

HEIWA payout ramp


This is an replacement for a damaged lower payout ramp. The ramp stops the winning balls, leads them to the side and activates the seesaw:


OriginalRamp.jpgNewRamp.jpg



The original HEIWA ramp was glued to the brass arm that has therefore two holes inside, this version fits tight and holds in place without glue, you will need to polish the brass arm. The new version has exactly the same weight




PayoutRamp.jpg




Printed on bambu P1P, no support, hardened nozzle 0.4, standard settings, PETG




ramp.zip

[bewalffm]

payout dust cover


It took a lot of try and error to design this part for my specific HEIWA machine. Don't know if it will fit anywhere else. For a tryout stop printing at about 30% and test it ...


HeiwaPayoutCover.jpg


The payout, it was designed for, has the numbers „PAT1084208“ and „PAT881752“ on it:


payout.jpg




There are two screw holes included at the base but it fits exactly and holds without screws in place.

PositionScrews.jpg

This cover needs a lot of support, when printed. Be sure to take the right filament color for printing. Finally it will need some plexiglas to be glued from the inside, so you can view the working of the payout mechanism from behind.


PayoutcoverBottom.jpgPayoutcoverTop.jpg


Printed on P1P, 4.5 hours printing time, lot of support, 180g Filament - about half of it for support, standard settings, PLA


PayoutCover.zip

[SibSr]

Thanks for posting your stuff Bernd.

I apologize for leaving this thread dormant for so long. I have lots of parts to post, so I am going to try to post a couple a day and see if I can get some of the backlog available for downloads.

[bjab]

Yes, he does nice work that's for sure.

[sparky kilowatt]

Yes, he does nice work that's for sure.

I'll second that sentiment!

[CrafterK]

SibSr… do you sell just the 3D printed parts or do you sell your print files? My daughter has a 3D printer, but I am clueless on how to model what I need for setting up a print. Looking for a Sankyo payoff (payout) control rocker arm.
Thanks!
Kit

[SibSr]

SibSr… do you sell just the 3D printed parts or do you sell your print files? My daughter has a 3D printer, but I am clueless on how to model what I need for setting up a print. Looking for a Sankyo payoff (payout) control rocker arm.
Thanks!
Kit

I print them for people who can't, but I post the files here for free if you want to download and print it yourself.
When I print it, I also install the brass sleeve in the pivot hole, a hex nut as a counterweight, and test it before I send it to you.
I have a version of the file that is designed to not use the brass sleeve. I'll post that as well.

I'll make this the first file I post in my new "post a couple parts a day" plan that is already several days overdue

[SibSr]

OK...Here we go

[SibSr]

Nishijin Model A and B Power Ports

My latest project are Nishijin replacement power ports in the 2 styles I see on the machines in my collection.
Older Model As uses a version with a low ball lamp support on the bottom

NishijinApowerportwithlight.jpg NishijinApowerportwithlightcompare.jpg here is my version next to a green original. So far I have seen these in green and blue only

There is a long narrow version that has 5 holes across the top, 4 for connector posts and one hole on the end for a mounting screw
Here is the original NishijinApowerportnolight.jpg The tongue on the end slides into a slot on the Model B back, and then lines up with a post on the back for the mounting screw
This version uses a metal bracket stapled to the backboard to hold the low ball lamp socket NishijinAlowballlightclip.jpg



Here is my copy in comparison NishijinApowerportnolightcompare.jpg I have seen originals in Brown, Black, Blue and Green, no light colors


I have the slots for the original fuse clips, and then added holes on each side of both designs for the aftermarket fuse clips from Amazon that use a couple spikes to attach.

NishijinApowerportnolightholes.jpg

Currently I'm working on a source for the wire termination posts. Speaker binding posts are close, but not quite. PC motherboard standoffs are the right shape and size, but threads do not match.
I have some coming from China in a couple days that may work...TBD


Printer = Ender 3 S-1
Filament = PETG
Temps = 242 for extruder, 72 for Bed
Supports = yes. used the "normal everywhere" settings
Build Plate Adhesion = Raft
Orientation = Printed flat and face up
Print time = ~4 hours on highest quality

[SibSr]

Here is the Zip for the no light version NishijinApowerportnolightholes.jpg


Here are the clips I used - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Clips-...s%2C146&sr=8-5

Standoff posts used on circuit boards were used as they were the closest I could find to what I needed, I ended up drilling the holes through from the side and re-tapping the threads to #4-40 to go along with the screws I am using for the thumbscrews. Original thumbscrews also work, but start binding the farther to go into the post.
These are from Amazon as the ones coming from China still haven't arrived yet.
https://a.co/d/gb8f2L3



I already make Thumbscrews that were listed earlier in this thread, now I have the posts to go with them and can make the whole power port assembly

thumbscrews.jpg
here is the first version NishijinApowerportcomplete.jpg I have received a roll of brown filament that is closer to an original color.

NishijinBpowerportcomplete.jpg back side with hand cut brass connections NishijinApowerportcompletebrownback.jpg

I've purchased 3 different rolls of brown filament and still haven't quite hit it.

powerportcolorcompare.jpg


I've updating the zipped file to the latest version on 8/19/24

[SibSr]

I'm going to break away from the Nishijin stuff to address a couple Sankyo parts that have become popular recently

Sankyo Payoff Rocker - Early / Blue

This is the blue part in the payoff dispenser, that releases the balls for a payout on early Sankyo machines without the removeable back. A part that commonly fails due to age by just crumbling when handled.
SankyoBlueRockerOriginalinplace.jpg crackedbluerocker2.jpg brokebluerocker.jpg




Printer = Ender 3 S-1
Filament = PETG (for durability)
Temps = 242 for extruder, 72 for Bed
Supports = yes. used the "normal - everywhere" settings
Build Plate Adhesion = Raft
Orientation = Printed on its flat back
sankyobluerocker3D.jpg

The "big bore" file has a bore size to accommodate a piece of brass tubing for the pivot point like the original
I'm using the hobby brass stuff from Ace Hardware for the tubing

The "small bore" file has a bore size to use with the factory pivot pin and no brass tubing

In BOTH cases running a rat tail file through the bore is often required for a completely smooth hole

The hex hole for the counterweight is for a metric hex nut

[SibSr]

Sankyo Payoff Rocker Late / Clear

This part is for later Sankyo's that have the removeable back. They are a big improvement over the older blue versions, but the are still fragile and break occasionally (especially when dropped on the floor)

sankyopclearrocker.jpg sankyolaterockercompare.jpg
This part can be distinguished by the square tab added to the metal shield as an improvement over the way the shield is attached on the older blue rocker.

sankyorockershieldnewer.jpg


Printer = Ender 3 S-1
Filament = PETG (for durability)
Temps = 242 for extruder, 72 for Bed
Supports = yes. used the "normal - everywhere" settings
Build Plate Adhesion = Raft
Orientation = Printed on its flat back

I seem to only have the "Big bore" version for this part to use a brass sleeve in the pivot bore.

[SibSr]

Back to the Model A stuff --

Nishijin Model A Track Cover Assembly

Keeps the balls in a single layer as they approach the payout dispenser
NishijinAoriginaltraclcoverinplace.jpg

The assembly consists of 3 parts.
The swing arm
The spring pack
The actual track cover

While these are originally metal parts, I have used the 3D replacements on my model A and they seem to work fine.

NIshijinATrackcovercomparison.jpg

The trickiest part is the spring pack, as many of the supports required to make the helix are inside the coil. Takes patience to remove them all with out breaking the coil, but it can be done.

NishijinAspringpackencased.jpg

I switched to using silver filament for the final version

NIshijinAfinaltrackcoverassemblyTOP.jpg NIshijinAfinaltrackcoverassemblyBOTTOM.jpg

I'm also including the file to make a new hinge pin for the swing arm


Printer = Ender 3 S-1
Filament = "Silk" PLA - uses a slightly higher printing temp
Temps = 215 for extruder, 60 for Bed
Supports = yes. used the "normal everywhere" settings
Build Plate Adhesion = Raft
Print Orientation = spring pack - upside down, Swing arm - standing vertically as if installed on the machine, Track Cover - flat to reduce supports

[bewalffm]

... some of the attachments did not work, thanx to mr gneiss for help -- this is the second try ...

payout switch


If you have to replace the switch for payout light you can use this mount a new switch and the original screws.


SwPayout.jpg


To get a new one working for HEIWA and maybe similar search for “End of stroke switch leaf for pinball Williams normally open“. The long copper tongue is a little bit taller than the original - that helps to adjust the wire that closes the switch to light the payout bulb.

SwNew.jpg SwMount.jpg


Printed on bambu P1P, no support, standard settings, PLA

Sw.zip

[bewalffm]

Swing


This „swing“ helps to keep the balls on the upper tray in place:

Swinginplace.jpg


This version has two holes to put in two pachinko balls for better weight and better function. The balls fit very tight - if you want to remove them - you have to destroy the object. The backside is constructed to prevent the swing from touching parts of the HEIWA ball tray when in action.


SwiBack.jpg SwiFront.jpg


Printed on bambu P1P, file has object in upright position, has to be turned to frontside manually, some support necessary, standard settings, PLA, needs some sanding.


swing2.zip

[bewalffm]

lower track cover


This replacement part for a HEIWA machine has two printing parts „cover“ and „mounting“.


Covinplace.jpg


The cover slides into some space on the right side of the track, needs part two to hold it down on the left side. You can slide the mounting part inside a little square on the left side of the lower track. I have designed it with a hole to screw it to the track cover - but this is not necessary, all parts fit exactly and the track cover works fine for my HEIWA machine without a spring or a screw.


cover.jpg mount.jpg


Printed on bambu P1P, cover with support - needs sanding, mount without support, both with standard settings, PLA


coverlo.zip

[SibSr]

Model A Rear Tray wall

This part on the incoming end of the rear tray on a Model A, serves as the upper mounting point for the track cover hinge pin mentioned above.
A piece of wire used as a hinge for the ramp that swings up in the rear tray, runs through this part

011.jpg


008.jpg 010.jpg 014.jpg

Mine was broken, so I made a new one. Later Model As have this part molded as part of the tray



Printer = Ender 3 S-1
Filament = PETG (for durability)
Temps = 242 for extruder, 72 for Bed
Supports = yes. used the "normal - everywhere" settings
Build Plate Adhesion = Raft

[SibSr]

Model A Rear Tray Support Strut

This part supports the weight of the rear tray on a Model A, running from the tray side to the back plastic just below the upper tray.
Normally made out of metal, it is riveted to the side of the tray, so the rivet has to be drilled out and replaced with a screw or pop rivet. I thought I would give a plastic version a try to replace the piece of wire used as a repair on one of my machines.
It s long enough that a bigger printer has to be used, and it is rendered in a triangular shape


Nishijin Model A tray support.jpg





I've printed a couple of them, One broke on one end. The second worked, but has had limited use for testing it's durability


Printer = AnyCubic Chiron
Filament = PETG (for durability)
Temps = 242 for extruder, 72 for Bed
Supports = No
Build Plate Adhesion = Brim

[SibSr]

Sankyo Payout Rocker Shield - For later removeable back versions with a clear rocker

In the payout dispenser at the center of the machine, the clear rocker has a curved metal “shield” attached to it by a screw and nut. This shield holds the balls back until time to be dispensed and is prone to breakage due to age, and is identified by it’s squared tab at the attachment point. (The earlier Sankyo blue rockers use a different design.) The screw attachment point between the shield and the rocker is a common failure point and the shield can be missing.

sankyorockershieldnewer.jpg

While the original shield is metal, I have designed a plastic part that works as a suitable replacement
Extra ribbing was added in two directions to make it more rigid, and then (silver)PLA was used instead of PETG for the same reason. PLA is less flexible and more rigid than PETG

Sankyorockerassembly3Dprinted12.jpg


This setup has been used on my machine for testing with several thousand balls run through it and it works fine.
Don’t know if it would withstand a production environment, but I’ve shipped a couple of them to others and so far so good.

Sankyopayoffshield3Dinstalled.jpg

Printer Information: Creality – Ender 3 S-1

Material: Silver Silk PLA
Temps: 215 for silk PLA/ 60 bed temp
Supports: Yes -normal / everywhere
Adhesion: Raft
Orientation: Standing vertically with squared tab at the top
Other: The very tips at the end of the shield where the plastic is thin are tricky to print, and their part of the shields shape is important for keeping the balls retained.
Slow print speeds, gentle post-print clean up, and care when removing supports is important